Looks like it. I wonder how many TVs have got this bug, chewing up electricity and creating lots of extra Co2.
Probably lots of others out there. Possibly me.
But then 12 watts of power consumption is just nowhere near my care factor level.
After after restored all my setting after a factory reset the TV is performing as I would expect.
90% of the time it shuts down to less than 1 watt almost immediately whereas before it would spend 5 minutes or so at 20-30 watts before dropping to 12 watts. This is what is does now occasionally which I assume is its pixel cleaning mode.If it was stuck in pixel cleaning mode it could have implications for the life of the panel.
2 Likes
Might be so. Equates to about $40 per year (if I got my sums right).
However when you multiply that by number of affected TVs and convert to equivalent cars on the road for CO2 emissions it might not be so flash.
How many customers actually bother to measure their standby power consumption? Worse still, how many entities like Choice measure the power consumption with the right specific combination of settings? Measure at factory defaults, sure.
I had previously measured my TV but only when operating (because that was what was of interest at the time), not when on standby.
Donât know how you worked that out.
At my Kwh rate of $0.54 then using 12 watts would be 0.12 cents per day or $4.73 a year.
Way below my care factor of going through all that rigmarole of measuring. Probably use up way more power by using a device to post complaints about it on the Internet. 
I donât know how you worked that out but allowing for 20hrs a day on standby itâs $47.20.
1 Like
Yes, depending on your tariff and assumptions about how long each day on standby the answer must be an order of magnitude greater than $4.73 per year, somewhere around $40 to $60 PA.
1 Like
I think that where you went wrong is messing up $0.12 per day aka 12¢ per day v. 0.12¢ per day. And the per annum figure looks incorrect as well, even allowing for the different stated cost per day.
For sure. Thatâs why I just said âabout $40â - because I have no idea what tariff anyone else is on (including how a PV system would influence the true cost) or how long is reasonable to assume on standby each day on average.
I just wanted to give an idea of the cost, as that could determine how much complaining is justified.
Looking at the manual, low power is only achieved when the power is off setting in used and not standby settings.
The manual states clearly standby setting will increase power consumption.
If you believe the TV is using more power than it should, it will be because the standby setting is used.
Irrespective of what the TV or any appliance uses in standby or when powered off, it is recommended that devices are turned off at the power point when not in use.
While a few watts here and there may not be seen as a significant cost to many, if the millions of TV and other domestic devices are left turn on and use small amounts of power, the total amount Australia wide is significant (in the 10s of megawatts). This is additional electricity which needs to be generated continuously and delivered to homes.
Itâs not any more since I did a factory reset.
Even with fast start on it uses less than 1 watt.
Yep, I goofed up. The dollar amount I came up with is the cost of a Watt year at my tarriff before pay on time discount applied.
Which is why I canât be bothered turning off the TV power and just leave it in standby.
But is my TV sitting there chewing up 12 Watts rather than 1 Watt in standby? I donât know. Maybe it is worth checking out after all.
1 Like
If youâve got one of these TVâs and youâve dutifully applied the updates as they come out then it may have the same fault.
I wonder if they apply new updates to a TV thatâs had the full series of updates or to one that has been through a factory reset.
I notice theyâve released a new WebOs update yesterday,
Well I do have an LG 4k TV, but 10 years old now so not OLED.
But, same operating system. I think I might just get me a power monitor. What do you use?
Itâs probably a rare issue and it would be specific to the software for the LG C2 OLED, my C8 which is a few years older has different software and has no problems.
Iâm using a TP-Link HS110 and TP-Link Tapo Smart Socket with energy monitoring.
Theyâre not too accurate below 1 Watt, (the new TP-Link App doesnât read below 1 Watt), and they donât take power factor into account so may read 10% or so over actual usage.
1 Like
Good to see the factory reset appears to have fixed potentially higher energy use during standby. This would have removed user settings which in the TV manual states significantly increases power use. It wouldnât having been a fault of the TV.
Caution should be given to using such devices as they arenât overly accurate under most residential loads. It is worth reading this paper, which is one of a few which looks at smart socket type meters:
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2772671123000323
It includes the assessment of a TP-Link model.
As indicated in an earlier post, these devices are about identifying change in power consumption, such as what happens with different use pattern to reduce power usage, rather than measuring accurate instantaneous use.
Edit: the HS110 FAQs state that âitâs not a professional power measurement deviceâ which indicates it isnât testing equipment nor should the measurements be relied upon. Further the smart sockets are about making a standard power point smarter through:
- Remote Access â Control devices connected to the Smart Plug wherever you have Internet using the free Kasa app on your smartphone.
- Scheduling â Schedule the Smart Plug to automatically power electronics on and off as needed, like setting lights to come on at dusk or turn off at sunrise.
- Away Mode â Turns your devices on and off at different times to give the appearance that someone is home.
- Voice Control â Amazon Alexa or the Google Assistant (sold separately) lets you control devices connected to the Smart Plugs just using your voice.
The HS110 also has an energy monitoring function as an additional feature. Something interesting for a consumer to use but as indicated in its literature, it isnât designed or should be relied upon as a device for testing equipment energy use.
I never said they were professional devices. The device did exactly what I wanted it to do, it told me that the TV was using much more power than it should have. Someone told me to do a factory reset which I did and now itâs fixed.
1 Like
Doesnât really matter how truly accurate a power monitor is, it can be used comparatively.
If one tests a device rated as say 24 watts, like a light globe, or an old fashioned incandescent globe at 75 watts, or a bar radiator at 1200 watts, and the power monitor is within Âą20% then that is plenty good enough to determine the difference between a TV that is supposed to be 1 watt and is incorrectly 12 watts in standby.
Any talk about AC âpower factorsâ can be ignored. That only applies to devices that have reactive components like motors or large power transformers. Which none of the mentioned have. One can just use a PF of 1.
The old CRT TVs had power transformers, but todayâs TV have switched mode power supplies. With little RF transformers well downstream of the input AC source.
Generally retailers and manufacturers avoid mentioning power factor (PF) for domestic products. Residential consumers only pay for the actual power taken from the grid, and do not pay an additional cost due to a household power factor less than Unity (1.0). ***
The absence of a PF in the common specifications of a product should not be taken as implying it is 1.0 for the product. It most likely is not.
To note:
Reactive components are present with any modern electronic design using switch mode regulation. Such devices include LED light bulbs and switch mode power supplies (plug packs, TVâs, chargers etc). The lower power devices use basic strategies to correct the power factor (PF) and filter harmonics. How effective varies between products (type, model/brand) and with the load where applicable. Every product needs to be considered on itâs individual specification and performance. For low power devices in a home the overall impact of poor PF has typically been accepted as negligible compared to fridges, pool pumps, PV inverters, power tools etc.
The US Energy Star ratings require home LED globes to have better than a PF of 0.7 or higher. A PF of 0.8 (lagging) is often quoted as the minimum desirable outcome for residential connections in Australia.
Note:
*** A technical discussion, although for a business user it may not be.
1 Like
Iâm inclined to agree with @Gregr (and by implication with @Ericc) - it is good enough for resolving the specific problem reported in this topic.
Looking more broadly though:
- When Choice reviews TVs, does it verify manufacturersâ claims about power consumption and do so for the various applicable modes (e.g. standby)?
- If so, what measurement equipment does Choice use?
Any measuring device that implements WiFi (or Bluetooth) for communication (telemetry, remote control) would be a bit suss at the low end because all that extra hardware is going to consume some power. And, yes, the paper that you link above does raise some different good points about other potential issues relating to accurate measurement.
However I guarantee you that I would be more concerned about the security implications of a plug or powerboard with built-in WiFi than with the extra power consumption (which is all covered by self-generation anyway) or than with the accuracy of the power measurement. 
Are both concerns?
- The in home trends are for increasing use of IOT and smart devices always plugged in or connected.
- The security risks which are also very important to understand are discussed in other community topics.
Choice does include standby power for some types of consumer goods. Most often relying on the OEM specification sheets. We rely on our Electricity Smart Meter 30 minute interval reporting looking for any changes in the low demand night time consumption. Itâs trending upwards with each new connected appliance/device.
